Just Ask: Your Green Questions Answered

Enlarge Image Image Gallery Photo courtesy TransFair USA

TACKLING ENVIRONMENTAL TOPICS WITH IRREVERENCE, INTELLIGENCE AND A FRESH PERSPECTIVE.

Buzz Alterin’

Q)
I’m a seriously indulgent coffee drinker. Lately, there have been a ton of “green” coffee shops popping up. I like to support local shops, and I want to believe that they sell shade-grown, fair-trade, organic java, but I’ve wondered if they’re being honest. How do I know if they’re legit?
Claudia Gutierrez
San Diego

A)
“Shade-grown,” “fair trade” and “organic” are certifications, not just buzzwords. All three resulted from our wanting a way to ascertain that our coffee addiction supported sustainable agriculture and fair labor standards rather than displaced workers toiling in serfdom on devastated land. You can determine legitimacy by doing a little sleuthing. Check for labels: Coffee that meets all three standards is called “triple certified.” And ask if the roaster itself has been certified.

Here’s what to look for: Fair-trade certification indicates that producers and workers receive a fair price for their goods and that the production process considers social, economic and environmental factors. It requires annual inspections, fees and filings to be sure producers continue meeting the standards. At present, certification is controlled the group Fairtrade Labelling Organizations International (Fairtrade.net). The U.S. arm, TransFair USA, uses a (hopefully familiar) label on its fair-trade certified products (www.TransFairUSA.org). The fair-trade movement is an excellent hope for sustainable development worldwide, and it’s definitely worth supporting.

Organic certification uses a similar process, but it focuses on production, not on price or labor specifications. The International Federation of Organic Agriculture Movements (www.IFOAM.org) provides an umbrella organization and voluntary agreement on organic basics. In the United States, the U.S. Department of Agriculture certifies organic producers and processors, and some private and state entities do as well. There’s a (hopefully familiar) label in this case as well, and there’s also no shortage of controversy—most recently over whether foods that include artificial ingredients should qualify as organic.

While “organic” and “fair trade” are organized and widespread eco-labels, “shade-grown” certification is less formalized at this point. The Smithsonian Migratory Bird Center (www.NationalZoo.si.edu) and the Rainforest Alliance (www.Rainforest-Alliance.org) both offer third-party labels that verify the maintenance of diverse forest and bird habitat on coffee plantations. From what I’ve seen, shade grown is not a make-or-break certification for caffeine addicts, in part because it’s least prevalent and least specific.