Twenty Years of Green Dining

There are several reasons Greens, one of San Francisco’s most famous vegetarian restaurants, has been such a success for the last twenty years. There’s the view—the Golden Gate Bridge filling an entire wall of windows. There’s the roomy warehouse itself—converted into a restaurant by a crew of Zen carpenters, with an atmosphere that combines elegant dining with the bounty of a roadside vegetable stand. Then there’s the red curry with cashew basmati rice and mango chutney. Undoubtedly, the principal reasons Greens has been successful for so long are the quality of its fresh, mostly organic, fruits and vegetables and the simple, interesting ways they are prepared.

GREENS RATATOUILLE

Make this stew at the height of summer, when eggplant, peppers, and tomatoes couldn’t be better. As the vegetables slowly simmer, their sweet juices soak up the flavor of the fragrant fresh herbs. You can use Greek oregano in place of the marjoram, but taste it first—oregano’s strong, pungent flavor can overpower the delicate basil. Serve over creamy soft polenta sprinkled with grated Parmesan. This ratatouille’s even better the next day, served at room temperature with crusty sourdough bread and salty black olives.

2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
1 medium-size red onion, cut into quarters and thickly sliced Salt and pepper
6 garlic cloves, finely chopped
3 medium-size Japanese eggplants, cut in half lengthwise, then sliced 3/4-inch thick on a diagonal, about 3 cups
2 medium-size bell peppers, cut into thick strips and then ­triangles, about 2 cups
1 pound summer squash, cut into thick slices or wedges
2 pounds vine-ripened tomatoes, peeled, seeded, and chopped, about 3 cups
1 bay leaf
3 tablespoons chopped fresh basil
1/2 tablespoon chopped fresh marjoram or Greek oregano

Heat olive oil in a large skillet and add onion, 1/2 teaspoon salt, and a few pinches of pepper. Sauté over medium heat until soft, about 5 minutes. Add garlic, eggplant, peppers, 1/4 teaspoon salt, and a few pinches of pepper; sauté for 8 to 10 minutes, until eggplant and peppers are just tender. Add summer squash, tomatoes, bay leaf, 1/2 teaspoon salt, and a few pinches of pepper. Stew over low heat for about 20 minutes, until everything is tender. Add basil and marjoram or oregano just before serving. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Serves four.

Adapted from Fields of Greens: New Vegetarian Recipes fromthe Celebrated Greens Restaurant by Annie Somerville. Copyright © 1993, Annie Somerville. Reprinted with permission of Bantam Books.