WHAT TO EAT RIGHT NOW Season’s Eatings
fall’s razzle dazzle
September/October 2003
By Susan Belsinger
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Summer Squash and corn stew, called calabacitas, can be spiced up with jalapeño or serrano peppers.
PHOTOGRAPHY BY JOE COCA
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September and October are peak harvest season for squash, corn, and tangy chiles—the hallmark of Southwestern cuisine. As love for the piquant flavors of poblano, serrano, and jalapeño has spread, chiles themselves have migrated so they’re now available in farmer’s markets across the country. This end-of-summer harvest dinner celebrates Southwestern and other fall flavors—you decide whether you want hot or mild.
CALABACITAS (SUMMER SQUASH AND CORN STEW)
A medley of fall flavors unites in this versatile Southwestern favorite, named after the Spanish word for gourd: calabaza. Although corn and squash are the recipe’s staples, I love the color and taste that bell peppers, jalapeños, and tomatoes add. If you don’t care for cilantro, use the same amount of fresh basil or about 3 tablespoons of fresh oregano. Calabacitas may be served as a side vegetable with rice and beans, or it can be paired with chile con queso and eaten with tortillas.
SERVES 6
2 tablespoons vegetable oil (corn or olive)
1 cup coarsely chopped red onion
2 small zucchini, patty pan, or chayote squash (6 to 8 ounces)
1 cup chopped red or green bell pepper (optional)
2 jalapeño or serrano chiles, halved, seeded, and sliced (optional)
5 to 6 ears fresh corn, about 3 cups kernels
2 to 3 cloves garlic, minced
1 large ripe tomato, chopped (optional)
1 teaspoon cumin seed, toasted and ground
1/3 cup packed cilantro (coriander) leaves, chopped Salt and freshly ground pepper
Heat oil in a heavy-bottom sauté pan. Add onion and sauté for 2 minutes. If you’re using zucchini, halve lengthwise and slice in 1/4-inch slices; if using patty pan or chayote, quarter and slice into 1/4-inch slices. Add squash, bell pepper, and jalapeño and sauté for 4 minutes, stirring occasionally.
If using fresh corn, cut kernels from the cobs. If you like, slice one or two ears into 1/4-inch rounds. Add the corn, garlic, tomato, and cumin into the sauté pan; stir well, cover, reduce heat to medium, and cook for about 5 minutes. If the pan is dry, add a splash of water, vegetable stock, or white wine. If you don’t use the tomato, you may need to add up to 1/2 cup of liquid.
Add cilantro, salt, and pepper. Stir well and cook, covered, for another 2 to 3 minutes. Season to taste. Serve with warm tortillas.
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