Porcino, Morel and Chanterelle: A Feast of Wild Mushrooms

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In general, these three mushroom varieties are enhanced by shallots or onions, and by cooking in even a small amount of butter. Garlic obscures the subtleties in chanterelles and morels, but porcini can stand up to a discreet amount. Matching intensity of flavors is the most important thing to remember. If you’re new to wild mushrooms, this is a process of discovery for your own palate.

The amount of mushrooms to cook depends on the variety and dish. Chanterelles shrink more during cooking than the other two varieties. A good rule of thumb is to use one pound of chanterelles for four to six people. Half a pound of porcini and morels generally satisfies four to six. Of course, this may vary according to the maturity of the mushroom, and how wet the conditions were when they were harvested, as water will add to the mushrooms’ weight.

Porcini have a flavor that stands alone, especially when cooked over wood. They pair well with bread, polenta, and white beans. They also complement full-flavored foods such as game and game birds, beef, lamb, and duck. Some Italians cook porcini with salt cod. The natural juices from porcini make a rich sauce on their own, and wonderfully complex ones with wine and/or meat or poultry stock. Dried porcini are a pantry staple that deliver a dinner’s worth of flavor. Simmer dried ones for ten minutes or so, 1/2 ounce of porcini to 11/2 cups of water, for incomparable flavor in soups, sauces, pasta dishes and risottos, and stews.

Chanterelles are distinctive but delicate. Their perfume and flavor fade more quickly than those of porcini and morels. Chanterelles’ ­pronounced fruit and nut flavor make them good partners with most herbs, with mild-tasting white fish, chicken, veal, and pork chops and roasts. Some people like chanterelles with shrimp, prawns, and lobster. Chanterelles take the acidity of wine well, especially Sauvignon Blanc, which has a complementary flavor. A dish of chanterelles is delicious on its own: Simply cook in butter with shallots or a little onion over medium heat until the mushrooms absorb their juices and turn deep golden brown.

Morels are adaptable partners with many foods, including other mushrooms. They harmonize with root vegetables, especially early crops of beets, carrots, and potatoes. Mashed potatoes any time of year with fresh and/or dried morel gravy is a treat. Dried morels can enrich a fall or winter vegetable stew or a roasted dish of rutabagas, parsnips, carrots, and winter squash. A very special flavor results when morels are mixed with peas, asparagus, or artichokes. Morels are classic with veal stews and as side dishes with, or sauces for, veal roasts or grills. They have a long history of accompanying lamb, pork, quail, pheasant, and squab. nNH

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